The End of Tuna?

Here is an interesting article that was posted in the NYTimes Magazine. How will the Gulf oil spill and dwindling fish stocks affect global tuna consumption?

From the Travel Files: Tsukiji Fish Market- Tokyo, Japan

Today I am blogging about one food find from my 5 week post-graduation trip through the Asia-Pacific region. The first place I visited was Tokyo. Tokyo is a major food center of the world. I can think of no other place that is more symbolic of Tokyo's love for food than the Tsukiji fresh seafood market. The largest of its kind, Tsukiji is a huge facility that is crammed with the freshest seafood harvested from the wee hours of the morning. Thus, the market is most active from before sunrise until about lunch time.



From the outside, the market does not really look like anything unique. However, inside is nothing short of organized madness as vendors strive to pack the seafood in ice and styrofoam. The fish is then loaded on big trucks using these small gas-powered trucks whose drivers probably graduated from the Fast and the Furious Driving School.





Outside of the market are rows of vendors that sell all sorts of vegetables, fruits, and kitchen tools and accessories. In addition, there are many little sushi shops that utilize the freshest catches of the day from the adjacent market. Which leads me to lunch...



To save money and maximize my fresh fish experience, I bought a few fresh chunks of tuna from the vendor above. The above tuna cost me about USD$5! I then took my tuna outside and browsed the streets until I found a little place that grilled up some teryiaki eel parts. I ordered the grilled eel fillets and was convinced to get some eel organs on a stick (I think they were livers). I indulged in my seafood mini-feast. The tuna was unlike anything I'd every had. "Fresh" tuna in the states is very clean tasting to the point where there is no flavor characteristics. That's fine and all. I don't want smelly tuna. BUT- this tuna had a clean and fresh flavor that still had the flavors of the ocean within it. It was something a little like when you breathe in the salty ocean air when you are near a beach. My friend from the eel shop was also nice enough to give me a little packet of wasabi and some soy sauce. A-mazing. The eel was salty, sweet, sticky, and the skin was crispy from the grill. I'm sure the sushi places are great but in my opinion, hold the rice and cut right to the chase. Overall, Tuna + eel + green tea = a wonderful lunch in Tsukiji.

Testing the Water is Back!

Long time no see to all of my viewers on the interwebs! I've had a busy year since I started this food blog last summer. Since my hiatus began, I've tried new foods, experimented with new dishes, and traveled across the globe. Look forward to new posts!

Roasted Pork Loin w/ Sweet Potatoes and Drunken Figs

First off- I apologize for the picture quality. I am in the middle of moving and I seem to have misplaced my camera. These pictures were taken with my laptop's webcam. The pictures came out alright, but I can assure you the food turned out to be excellent.

Roasted Veg

-1 big vidalia onion, cut in half and then into half moon-shaped dices

-6 or so cloves of garlic, still in their natural wrapping

-2 medium sweet potatoes, diced into rounds

-Quite a few glugs of extra virgin olive oil

-Kosher salt, black pepper

Toss all the ingredients in a bowl until all of the vegetables are coated in oil and seasoning. Add them to the roasting pan with the pork loin after the meat broils. It's that simple.

Drunken Figs

-12 or so dried black mission figs, diced in half

-1/2-3/4 cup of good cognac or port (I used the rest of the Remy Martin left over from my Pork au Poivre)

-Good balsamic vinegar.

In a small saucepan, heat the cognac and figs on a stove to about medium heat. Let the figs simmer until the alcohol vapors are gone. Cover the saucepan, and let the figs steep for a while in the cognac until the pork is done. When you are ready to serve the pork, add the figs and the reduced cognac/vinegar mixtures straight in to the veg. It's that simple.

Roasted Pork Loin 

-1 bone-in pork loin, look for one with an ample layer of fat on the top and the rack of ribs underneath. Pick one that looks like it could feed your party

-Kosher salt, black pepper

-Garlic powder

-3 bay leaves (optional)

-Extra virgin olive oil

Lightly coat the bottom of a roasting pan with the olive oil, to make sure the meat doesn't stick to the pan. Salt the pork ALL over. I'm not kidding- this thing should be seasoned more than a pretzel when you're done. Crack some pepper and sprinkle garlic powder all around afterward. Make sure the fat side is UP. Tuck the bay leaves under the roast (they will flavor the drippings and provide a little aromatic to the meat). Set your oven to broil. Cook the meat by itself for about 5-6 minutes or until the entire roast appears white and opaque on the outside, and golden crispy on the top. 

This is what the meat looks like post-broil

Add the veg to the roasting pan and reduce the heat to about 400 degrees for another 3-4 minutes. You want to look for the fatty side to be a little bit brown and the veg to get just a little bit of caramelization. At this point, turn the oven down low- to about 285 degrees. Park the roast in there for about an hour.

After the first hour, pull the pan out, use a turkey baster or a big spoon to pour any oil and drippings over the meat. Once the first basting session is done- cover the pan with foil and put it back in the oven at that low temperature. Continue this every hour or so until you're ready to serve. My roast spent about 4 1/2 hours in the oven-total, and it probably weighed a little over 5lbs. When you are ready to serve the meat, add the figs and fig liquid into the vegetables and let the whole things rest for about 20-30mins in the oven with no heat on. Pour the wine, heat your plates briefly in the microwave, and set the table in the meantime. See below on how to cut the meat.

The Tasting:

The roast turned out pretty well. After letting the meat rest for 30mins in the oven with no heat on, I cut the meat off of the rack of bones. What I was left with were some individual chops with a little bit of that caramelized skin all around the top and then a fatty nub of meat at the end that was just delicious. I spooned the drippings all over the cut meat. The golden hues of the olive oil and rendered pork fat created a "broken" au jus against the dark drops of reduced cognac and balsamic vinegar. The pork was tender, but still held its shape- not like the fall off the bone baby food baby food style pork that you might get from a crock pot or from boiled carnitas (which are good at certain times). The only thing I would have changed would have been to salt it even more in the beginning- OR salt the pork roast the night before and let it sit in the fridge. That's the price I pay for being creative on a whim. 

The sweet potatoes were very soft and were complimented by the onions, which had lost most of their mass and gotten much sweeter. The figs were a little burst of sweetness, distinct (but not overwhelming) flavor from the cognac, and crunch from their seeds. 

The wine changed the way the flavors interacted in my mouth. The alcohol and tannins in the wine easily cleaned the fat and salt from the pork, while leaving a mild cherry flavor in my mouth. If I took a bit of the sweet potato or the figs, the wine would balance out the sugars. After I was done eating, a swallow of the wine would give an earthier flavor and a nice finish. 

The moral of this cooking story is simple: balance. I have never cooked this dish before, but I am familiar with the flavors. Part of this comes out of experience. I know what onions and garlic taste like after roasting in the oven for several hours. I know the texture and the residual sugar that will be left in a sweet potato after its been baked at a low temperature. I know that a pork loin with a nice blanket of fat on top will stay much more juicy in the oven than, for example, a pork tenderloin. Cooking is quite the nurturing activity- you want to make sure that the pork gets broiled enough in the oven so that the fat gets a little crispy- but not burnt. The saltiness of the pork must be balanced by the sweetness of the figs and vegetables. The little amount of vinegar in the drippings plus the alcohol in the wine cuts through the fat in the pork. If you can hone these intuitions and skills then you don't need cooking books and shows. Good ingredients and a little imagination become your inspiration.

What I'm drinking- Portada Tinto (2006)

Yesterday was a tasting day at my local wine proprietorship. I did what I usually do during a wine store tasting- sip on my glass while I walk around the shop looking for new wines to try out. I knew I was cooking pork, so I wanted a good dry red wine that wouldn't break the bank. I walked by the cases of Bleasdale that was featured in my last post, and was tempted to pick up another bottle of that very drinkable wine. However- I came across a case of this wine, and its interesting description scribbled on the cardboard box. I asked Bruce, the owner of the store, for his opinion and his review reaffirmed my interest. Tannins, big flavor, and made from the same groups as used in port, the fortified after-dinner wine for which PORT-ugal is so famous for. 

So I picked up a bottle for $8.99. Opened it up, poured the first glass, and let the open bottle and the poured glass breathe for about an hour. I was really impressed. A little bit of cherry and currant up front, with a lasting smooth finish. The tannins are certainly present, but they are mild enough so that you don't have to gulp some water after each sip of wine. 

Portuguese wines are unique in their own respects. They usually come dry, but not bone-dry like french wines. They usually have a little bit of fruit up front to help give the wine a little more complexity. If you dig Spanish wines, like rioja or grenache, do yourself a favor and head the the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula for something a little different. Ask for a good recommendation if you can, as I have had a couple, cheaper Portuguese wines that were dry in all the wrong ways. I would certainly try this wine again.

A Meal Inspired

Today's meal has an interesting story. I have been housesitting for some friends that are out of town. As payment for my services rendered, I get access to their wonderful vegetable and herb garden. I'm lucky that summer squash and zucchini have been sprouting like weeds to past few days, so I am utilizing a lot of those vegetables in my daily meals (more on this in a later post). For dinner, I planned on baking some bread, frying up some of these truly local veggies, and baking a whole fish or something (something I saw Wolfgang Puck do on the Travel Channel late light night). I put some garlic in the toaster oven to roast, and started mixing my bread ingredients for the auto-lyse period. While the bread was doing its thing, I headed out the door to get the ingredients for the rest of my meal.

My meal plans changed a little bit after hitting up my regular, bi-weekly (thats every other week, not twice a week) wine tasting. During the wine tasting, I browsed a few inexpensive whites to drink with the fish- a good, semi-dry Muscat blend from Spain, some oaked California Chardonnays, etc. Maybe it was because Bruce, my local wine store proprietor, was being a little generous on his pours or maybe it was because I prefer red wine to white wine in all cases, generally, but I ended up buying a great blend of red wine grapes from Australia. This bottle was the last wine featured in the wine tasting, and its taste and inexpensive price left the most lasting impression on me. So I snagged this bottle, and hit the closest Food Lion on the way home. I bought a two-pack of porterhouse steaks to pair with the wine. The two-pack was only $8 on reduction. As the picture shows- these steaks are not super thick. But what these steaks lack in thickness, they certainly make up in length-if you know what I mean. Anyway- the meal came together and turned out to be one of the most delicious creations I've made. 

The lynchpin(s) of this wonderful meal is certainly the inspiration ingredient. It inspiration began with the fresh rosemary, zucchini, and summer squash from the garden, the lasting finish of a good wine,  and a good price on a good steak. Now that you know the backstory, let's get on to the details.

A Feast Tied Together w/ a Sprig of Rosemary

Rosemary-Garlic Bread

• 2cups of flour (I used a 60/40 ratio of King Arthur Bread to All-Purpose Flours)
• 2 tablespoon of SAF yeast (This may be a little overkill, maybe 1.5tb is better)
• 2tbl of kosher salt
• 2tbl of sugar (To supplement my excessive yeast levels)
• 1c of warm water
• 2 sprigs of rosemary, stripped off the stem and diced
• 1 head of garlic, roasted (cut the top off of the bulb so that the cloves are exposed, cover it in extra virgin olive oil, wrap it in foil, and let that sucker fry in the oven at 400 degrees)
• Corn meal (optional- you can use AP flour for dusting)
• Extra virgin olive oil

• Spin all of the ingredients in a mixer, except the garlic and rosemary, until well blended. Let it all sit for about an hour. Cover the mixing bowl with plastic wrap or a towel so it doesn't dry out. You should notice that the mixture will double or triple in size. 
  
• Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. If you have a pizza stone, use it now. If not, then use a cookie sheet on a rack.
• Gently scrape the mixture out onto a cutting board that is well-dusted with AP flour. Sprinkle the roasted garlic cloves and rosemary onto the dough.
• Knead the dough for about 2 minutes and try to incorporate the garlic and rosemary throughout the bread.
• If you have a pizza paddle, sprinkle it with AP flour or corn meal (as I used). Place the dough on the paddle and make sure it isn't sticking to the paddle. Brush or spread some extra virgin olive oil on the top of the dough to help it brown slowly. Otherwise, the top will be burnt and the inside with be raw.
• Place the dough on your pizza stone or cookie sheet. Let it bake for about 12-15 minutes or until the edges are golden brown.
• Serve it with some butter or a extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper for dipping.

Zucchini and Summer Squash w/ Rosemary

*Note- eyeball the amount of vegetables you'll need. For my big appetite, I used a fourth of a huge zucchini and a fourth of a squash

• summer squash, cut into fourths and then diced into medium chunks
• zucchini, cut the same as the squash
• extra virgin olive oil
• kosher salt, pepper
• red pepper flakes
• garlic powder
• lemon juice (optional- it adds a little brightness)

• Cook the veggies on medium-high for about 2 minutes. Meanwhile, season them with salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, and garlic power. 
• Turn the heat off after 2 minutes and cover the pan. The veggies will continue to cook for at least 5 minutes, or until the steaks are done, but they will still retain a little bit of crunch. 
• Squeeze a little lemon juice right before serving if you desire (I did). 

Rosemary-Rubbed Steaks

• Pick your favorite steak (I recommend a rib-eye, but I used a porterhouse because it was affordable)
• Kosher salt, pepper
• 2 sprigs of rosemary, stripped off the stem and diced fine

• Take the salt, pepper, and rosemary and grind them with the side of your knife or a mortar and pestle if you have a set. The rub should be mostly salt- you don't want the rosemary to completely dominate the steak. The salt and pepper act as an abrasive that will release the essential oils from the rosemary.
• If you like your steaks on the rare side, take them out of the fridge and let them sit out on the counter for at least 30mins before cooking. This ensures more even cooking.
• Use a cast iron pan if you have it- if not then use what you have. Whatever cooking vessel you use- turn it up the heat to high.
• Cover the steak with the rub. 
• Spray the pan with non-stick canola or vegetable spray. I prefer this to olive oil because the non stick spray does not burn quite as easily as olive oil.
• Cook the steak. I will not get into specific cooking times because stoves, steak thicknesses, pre-cooking temperatures- all vary. I usually just let my steaks cook 2-3 minutes on each side, just until you start seeing a little brown. I try not to overdo it because I hate a well-done steak, but that's me. 
• Let the steak "rest" on the plate for at least 2 minutes after cooking. This retains the natural juices in the meat, not on your plate. 

That was it- one of the most fantastic meals I've cooked...myself, if I may say so. But there's more!

What I am Drinking- Bleasdale, Langahore Crossing (2006) - $9-12

This Australian wine is a blend of cabernet (52%), malbec (27%), shiraz (15%), and petit verdot (6%). Those Aussies love their blend of old world and new world grapes and flavors. This red has a blackberry and slight spicy nose, and a cassis or currant taste on the tongue. The finish is dry, but quick. Not too many lasting tannins here. It really does a good job taming such a strong, woody herb like rosemary. Overall it is absolutely delicious, easy drinking, and very affordable.

(Vegetarian-Friendly) Lasagna Rolls

Who doesn't love lasagna? How many people like to make their own lasagna? Odds are, the answers to these questions are very similar (no one!). It's a shame that whenever the average American gets the lasagna fix, we have to settle for a frozen entree that either takes 2 hours in the oven or finishes as a watery mess in the microwave. This recipe is one that is inspired by a lasagna roll recipe that I saw on Giada's "Everyday Italian" the other day. Although I am a little inclined towards everything Giada, I thought this recipe was clever and a less-intimidating version of the traditional Italian dish. 

The version that I adapted uses a lot of stuff that I already had in my fridge/freezer. I decided to try it vegetarian style utilizing a lot of fresh herbs from my backyard, potted garden. The lasagna can be filled with whatever your heart desires (including meat).

Lasagna Rolls

• 1 pack of dried lasagna pasta
• 2 packages of frozen spinach
• 1lb of ricotta cheese (I used part-skim to lower the calorie count)
• Lots of parmesan cheese (or better quality, like parm-reggiano)
• Whipping cream (optional- could probably be swapped for olive oil)
• Plenty of kosher salt
• Black pepper
• Little dash of cinnamon or fresh nutmeg (because it's in all lasagna recipes)
• Dried red pepper flakes (optional- if ya like it hot!)
• 4-5 cloves of garlic, minced fine
• Lots of diced fresh herbs (I used basil, Italian flat leaf parsley, and a little thyme)
• Low-moisture mozzarella cheese (either the shredded stuff in a bag or the whole mozz that is throughly dried by wrapping it in a paper towel)
• Tomato sauce (I used a mixture of leftover uncooked pizza sauce and bottled Prego brand)

Action time!:

• Remove the frozen spinach from the carton and place it in a microwave safe container for 3 minutes or until its thawed. Let the spinach hang out until its cool to the touch. Then grab it into a big ball and squeeze the residual liquid out. If the spinach is not dry, odds are you will get some water-logged pasta. We want the pasta to soak up the liquid from the tomato sauce anyway, not spinach juice.
• Get a pot (big enough for the lasagna sheets) of boiling water started.
• Mix the spinach with the ricotta, a big handful or two of finely grated parmesan cheese, the diced herbs, garlic, and the dry seasonings. Mix them together until well blended. To get the ricotta to spinach ratio correct, see the picture of my mix. If your filling looks too dry, then add a little cream or olive oil. 
• Once the water comes to boil, add a handful of kosher salt to the water. Always season your pasta water with salt! No one likes bland pasta flavor. The water should be slightly salty to the taste. Some people say it should taste like ocean water, but I have some bad memories of swallowing water as salty as the sea...so I take it a little easier. 
• Add the pasta sheets 3 or 4 at a time to the pot and stir them with tongs to make sure they don't stick. Let them cook for about 7-8 minutes a batch or until the pasta is bendy and pliable without breaking. You want a really al dente pasta that will soften in the oven. Overcooking the pasta is another source of soggy lasagna.
• Fill each sheet with the filling, as pictured. You don't want to overstuff them so that the filling oozes out of the sides when you roll them up. After lining each sheet with filling, then roll the lasagna up like a sleeping bag. Repeat with each batch as they come out of the pot (if you wait too long, the pasta will dry out and break). 

Runways of flavor

• Stack each lasagna roll, side by side, into a oven safe dish that is lined with a thin layer of tomato sauce on the bottom. 

Ready and rolled!

• Preheat your oven to 450 degrees, with a rack in the middle of the oven.
• Spoon some more tomato sauce on each of the lasagna rolls and make sure that the pasta is well covered by sauce. You don't want any dried, uncooked pasta coming out of the oven. 
• Liberally sprinkle some more parmesan on top of the lasagna rolls.
• Top the rolls with mozzarella cheese. I used some leftover fresh mozz from last week's pizza night that I just tore apart by hand for a rustic look.
• Pop the dish in the oven for about 20-25 minutes or until the pasta has finished cooking through.

 

Before- and after- baking

• Let the lasagna rest for 3-4 minutes before serving and enjoy! The herbs really pop and add a nice complexity, without the meat. The cinnamon is barely noticeable, but it leaves a nice, savory lingering flavor in your mouth.

 

Check out the caramelization on that cheese- yum!

Ok, I claimed this dish was vegetarian friendly but I cheated a little. As I was filling my lasagna rolls, I realized I didn't make enough filling (the amounts listed above should be enough though). I quickly whipped up another batch of spinach-ricotta-and prosciutto filling made up with some left over meat from my fig-goat cheese-prosciutto pizza night. Giada's recipe also orignially used prosciutto. The prosciutto batch had a little bit of sweetness. Moral of the story: utilize what you like and what you have on stock in your fridge if you can. 

pork au poivre

Today, I am making a pork spin-off of a traditional French dish: steak au poivre (pepper steak). True steak au poivre is a staple of French bistros, and involves a thick-cut NY strip steak or a filet mignon heavily seasoned in coarse ground pepper with a creamy cognac sauce. I was watching Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" feature his restaurants, the Les Halles bistro in NYC. My version uses a bone-in pork chop because they are cheap and are basically a culinary blank palette- you can do almost anything with it. The result is a blend of flavors: the saltiness and black-pepper heat from the pork chops balance the fruity and slightly sweet cream sauce. 

Like a t-bone, this cut of pork chop offers a great blend of really tender and really tasty parts of the pig. Notice a good amount of fat along the side- this adds flavor and keeps the pork moist

In all honesty, I bought my chops as part of a sale-priced value pack so they aren't cut super thick like the type of meat usually used for steak au poivre. That's ok for me because you have to cook pork all the way through, unlike steak. You can use thick cut pork chops, but just make sure its cooked completely. Anywho- on to the recipe!

Pork au poivre with roasted garlic potatoes

Ingredients:

For the potatoes:

• 2 medium Potatoes, your favorite variety, cubed (rinsed and/or scrubbed, skins on)
• 4 garlic cloves (papery wrapper still on, trust me)
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Coarse sea salt or kosher salt
• Coarse ground black pepper
• Fresh thyme, rosemary (optional)

For the pork and pan sauce:

• Pork chops, one per person
• Olive oil
• Coarse ground black pepper
• Kosher salt
• Shallots or onions, diced (I used red onions, but you can use yellow or white but probably not Vidalia)
• Heavy cream
• Cognac (if you aren't a frequent sipper of the "yac" then you can get a few of those mini-bottles from the liquor store)

I used a bottle of Remy Martin VSOP that we had around the house

Directions

• Prepare the potatoes in advance by tossing the garlic cloves and cubed potatoes in olive oil in a large piece of aluminum foil (If the potatoes aren't coated, they will stick to the foil). Leaving the garlic in the paper helps them to roast and develop a really nice sweetness (and you can easily peel the paper off when its cooked). 

The pouch- before cooking

• Season the garlic and potatoes with salt and pepper.
• Toss in your favorite fresh herb if you want. This part is just another slight flavor enhancer. The real star of this dish is the pork.
• Fold the foil to make a pouch for the potatoes to steam in and bake the pouch around 400 degrees until the potatoes have softened all the way through. If you want, you can just roast them on the foil, not in a pouch, at a lower temperature. This will give you a drier, crispier potato with more caramelization. It's your choice.

The pouch after cooking

Roasted garlic - that dark brown color is what you should be shooting for

• Sauté the onions or shallots in a pan with olive oil and a little salt n pepa on medium heat until they get soft and semi-translucent.
• Season the pork chops with salt and lots of pepper (see the picture).
• Cook the pork chops on another pan on medium high for 3-4 minutes per side or until golden brown. If you chose the thick cut pork chops, I would leave them on the counter for 20mins to warm up to room temp a little before cooking them and/or finish the seared chops in a warm oven for a few minutes to make sure they are done.
• Turn the heat off the chops when they are done, leave them in the pan.
• Pour a healthy double shot of cognac into the pan with the onions and stir. Let the alcohol cook off for a few seconds.
• Add a little pour of heavy cream into the cognac and onions. The color you are looking for is a light brown (see the picture). 
• Stir and adjust any seasoning (salt and/or pepper). 

At this point you can either toss the pork chops into the pan with the sauce or you can pour the sauce directly on the chops. Garnish your prized pork with some of those roasted garlic-fragrant potatoes. 

A note on drinks - Rosé:

My drinking preferences change with the seasons. In the summer, I enjoy a little dry, chilled rosé. Yeah it's pink, so what? Europeans drink rosé throughout the summer. This stuff isn't sweet like Franzia or André blush. It has subtle flavors that range from cherry and strawberry to pomegranate. It's crisp, clean, and got a little more body than a sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio and can hold up to meatier dishes.

Sol Angélys - Tavel, France

To pare with my French-inspired pork au poivre, I am drinking a rosé from Tavel, France- one of the most famous cities for making rosé. I snagged this bottle after a recommendation from my local wine store proprietor for $12. Any guys who feel emasculated by drinking a pink wine can do a few pushups after dinner while watching the Spike channel.