A Pizza Story

For those of you who were in direct contact with me last week, you probably knew that I was teaming up for with my long-time, best friend and fellow foodie, Nathan, for a little test of our culinary prowess. It's been no secret to our close circle of friends that over the past year Nathan has tested his pizza recipes through various forms. I feel like I have been there along the way to offer my opinions, make suggestions, and learn a little bit about the ancient tradition of bread-making. Just think about it- the basic staple of a large portion of the world's diet is made up of just water, flour, and yeast. To join in this practice is to contribute to a lineage of bakers, both amateur and professional, in order to advance the flavors and textures of a food that many of us take for granted.

Pizza is a perfect site to explore the wonders of this trifecta of ingredients. Just think about it: who doesn't like pizza? No one I would trust, most certainly. Of course we have all had bad pizza here and there. Hell- some of us might have been so weened on bad, commercially stamped-out pies that we might not even know better. There are certainly pizzas that are simply fit for consumption and basic sustenance when we most need it (For example, Chanello's or Assantes here in Richmond). Then there are pizzas that surprise us with interesting new flavors that break the boundaries of conventionally-held thoughts on pizza (I suppose the Wolfgang Puck movement and California Pizza Kitchen would fall under this category). Regardless of what type or quality of pizza people it is (generally) a communally-eaten food. Where there is pizza, there are usually people. Pizza is great because it is one of those foods that is capable of bringing people together that span various age, demographic, and tastes.

That last paragraph might seem like a digression from my core story, but it's not. It actually situates the events that culminated over the past past week quite perfectly. Ya see, my buddy Nathan signed on to a pizza tour. The pizza tour is sponsored by a group of Richmond foodies called Pamparius. In essence, the group is headed up by two bikers with a blog and a belly for pizza. Participants of the second-ever Pamparius Richmond Pizza Crawl payed a flat fee to cover the cost of the pizzas at 5 of Richmond's newest and/or best pizza places. From what I heard, the final count was about 50 people who were willing to spend their Saturday night biking up and down the streets of Richmond in search of the city's best pie. There's this post's theme- pizza bringing people together. Something like this doesn't come out of thin air; I give major props to Pomparius' Grant and Andy for pulling this thing together and making sure things were planned precisely.

On the other end of this pizza tour, there was another pair of guys- Nathan and I. With the blessing of his roommates and significant other, we spent the last couple of days before Saturday's crawl working out some last minute details. We took Thursday's dinner to take a test run on some last minute variables. However, some loose ends presented some difficulties: Do we need a new pizza peel? Yeah, we should get one. Which mozz is best from the results of these test pizzas? Damn, this one is too dry and just flares up in the oven. This mozz has too much liquid; it'll probably just turn into a pile of goo. Wow! -This cheese is perfect, we should rush back to Kroger and buy the rest of it up before it's gone. Can we grow enough sourdough starter to make 8 pizzas in time? How are we gonna accommodate 50 people into a city apartment? Or worse- how do we accommodate 50 people INSIDE if it rains?



Eventually, most of these concerns resolved themselves by the day-of (except for the 35% chance of a thunderstorm by late Saturday night). Saturday morning, the whole apartment woke up. Some cleaning and rearranging took place. Nathan and I cleared out any extraneous items from the kitchen and cleaned the surfaces. The giant batch of hand-mixed dough had sat overnight in a cool place to rise and ferment. The first success: the dough smelled and looked great. It smelled like fresh cake and was the real sticky-icky, ooooh-weee! Nathan portioned the giant mound of dough into 8 balls of 330g apiece using a digital scale. Then- each ball was shaped and allowed to proof again at room temperature.



In the meantime, we brainstormed a menu. We knew that this was a rare opportunity to spread some buzz around Richmond if we ever decide to wade into the local restaurant pool. I came up with a menu design based around Nathan's pizzas. We ventured off to get them printed off (thanks to his girlfriend). At first site of the printed-off menu, we thought, "This operation looked legit." Lastly, we stopped off at the Carytown Ukrop's...errr Martin's to pick up some arugula for the last pizza. Kroger's arugula looks closer to baby spinach. Martin's has the right stuff, it's just that it's mixed with baby spinach. Thus, some manual separation was necessary. If anyone from Martin's is somehow reading this blog: get the Nature's Promise brand of baby arugula in every one of the Richmond-area stores! If some guy who is making arugula pizza in his home kitchen doesn't buy it all up, I'm sure some yuppie transplant from Ellwood's or Whole Foods will graze on it. Anyways- by 5:00pm or so, everything was prepped. The dough balls looked like oversized freshwater pearls, the arugula was separated from its leefy brother-in-prepackaged-arms, the mozz was sliced and diced, the garlic was chopped, the basil was picked, etc. etc. As Tony Montana would have said, "We were ready for war."


The crowd arrives

From about 5-9pm, we indulged in a few Sierra Nevada Summerfests as we enjoyed the quiet before the inevitable storm. The crowd wasn't planning on showing up until 9:30pm, but they left their first stop a little late. We thought we had more time to chill. At around 9:10p, Nathan gets a text from the pizza crawlers: "On our way from Stuzzi's." Stuzzi's is the latest place that is trying to bring authentic, Neapolitan pizza from the former site of 1 North Belmont. It also happens to only be about 3 blocks from Nathan's house. We had to get workin' fast.



So, Nathan stretches the first dough ball. We begin to work in tandem, like a dance in the kitchen. He works the dough, while I tango line back and fourth between the oven and the fridge pulling ingredients. We struck an instant harmony. Before we knew it, two margheritas were ready to go, wrapped in foil, and waiting for their hungry patrons. As soon as the second pizza popped out of the oven, about 35-40 bikers with their strobing headlights pulled around to the backyard. It was an adrenaline-inducing sight for us. Nathan's roommates went down to greet everyone and try to bring them up. Instead, they chose to hang out in the backyard. Fine by us- less people inside to crowd our space. Grant and Andy of Pomparius came up and were excited to serve Nathan's pizza. They have sampled it before and loved it. However, their fellow pizza crawlers didn't seem too enthused about the other Neapolitan-style pizzas that they had tried earlier. Both of them were concerned that they would also be turned off by Nathan's pizza.


However, the first round of tasters were pretty impressed that there was pizza ready to go. The other four stops were all restaurants; we were the only house on the stop. Our dough was hand-mixed, not blended in an industrial sized mixer. Our dough was naturally leavened, and wasn't proofed in a commercial box. All of these other places had an entire staff of prep cooks and people on their ovens, whereas we had two. There was no D.O.C.-certified wood-burning oven or large, gas deck oven at "Chez Dooley." We relied on the apartment's old Gibson-brand electric oven. All of this David versus Goliath thought was something that was deeply in our minds, but it wasn't apparent in the pizza crawlers. As we were spitting out pizzas, in and out from the kitchen, we had a few people who came up to see what all the fuss was about. One person said, "Grant told me I had to see the oven. Where is it?" I said, "It's right in front of you." Their reply, "You gotta be kiddin'. I dunno how you got THAT oven hot enough to make crust like this."


Where all the action happens

And the complements boosted our momentum as the night went on. We got compliments that the pizza was the best they've tasted that night, or ever for that matter. The last few pizza crawlers that stuck around until the end of the crawl were rewarded with the Rucola, one of the house's favorite pies. Nathan shoved the last piece into my mouth and the mouths of all his roommates, who had graciously dealt with the madness leading up to the event. It was a taste of accomplishment, commitment, and of spicy, meaty arugula! After, we slammed a few whiskey shots down and headed to a bar down the block to dance in celebration of the night.



In all, 8 of the best pizzas I've seen Nathan make were pulled out of that oven that night. The whole production was a team effort from the guys at Pomparius to everyone at Nathan's apartment. The pizza gods smiled down on us with good weather, perfect pizza, and great company. I'm so damn proud of him and I feel nothing short of pure bliss whenever I get a chance to work in the kitchen with him. Moments like that remind us all why we love food. The passion, the torment, the climax, and the resolution. A good food story is much like a great movie or a great novel for all of those reasons. Hopefully, that night will only be the end to one chapter in this Richmond-based pizza story. And that my friends, will have to be continued...